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IX

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XI

Thou shalt always allow stains and colorants to dry completely before applying a sealer or topcoat.

Stains and other colorants that are not allowed to dry completely will behave the same as wet wood and can cause a variety of defects in the finish, including blushing, pinholes or softness.

Thou shalt sand every coat of sealer and topcoat with 220-grit sandpaper - or higher.

And if you are applying a glossy finish, you may want to go even higher in grit rating. The finer the grit, the less the grit-abrasion patterns and therefore the smoother the surface. Do it right, and light will reflect more brilliantly from what will be a much glossier surface.

Thou shalt be sure of compatible materials.

Many problems are caused when the products you use are not compatible with each other. Never assume that any two given products are compatible. Check them out and be sure if you want to avoid costly mismatches!

XII

Thou shalt always spray from the bottom of the piece up, and front the front to rear

This helps in overspray from settling onto the work, thus saving you time, money and the need for recoating.

XIII

Thou shalt always give slower-drying solvents time to evaporate from each coating before applying the next coat.

All reducers contain solvents that evaporate at different rates. These solvents can cause problems if they are trapped within a coating. By allowing the slower-drying solvents time to fully evaporate, you can avoid unsightly bubbles or pinholes that may form.

XIV

Thou shalt always build a finish with gloss coatings, then top it off with a material of lower sheen-satin, flat or dead flat.

If there's too much flattening agent in the sub-coats of the finish, it can cause problems. So if you apply satin or flat materials as sub-coats, you must allow them to dry out completely so you can see their true sheen, as they will become duller as they dry out. Using gloss materials as sub-coats and then flattening the finish with the topcoat is simpler, presents fewer problems and offers you more control over the final appearance.

XV

Thou shalt always allow enough drying time before sanding between coats.

The longer you let the coating dry before hitting it with an abrasive, the less trouble you'll have. As coatings harden, they become easier to sand, rub out or compound.

XVI

Thou shalt always remember that two thin coats are better than one thick one.

Thin coats dry much faster than do heavy ones, so you will experience far less trouble with runs, sagging and bridging if you work with multiple thin coats and allow each to dry before applying a new one.

XVII

Thou shalt always keep containers of finishing material closed and sealed when they are not in use.

Evaporation and oxidation will steal your chemicals if the cans are left open. Also, humidity or moisture can contaminate these materials if they are exposed to ambient air for extended periods.

XVIII

Thou shalt always keep thy shop and equipment clean.

It's hard to make a clean finish in a dirty shop. Dust and other airborne contaminants will ruin the best work by the best refinisher. As a result, you should routinely clean your spray guns, cups, pots and spray booth, not to mention your brushes, saws, tools, benches, floors and stripping area. Time invested today in cleanliness will pay great dividends in everyday productivity.--and in your health and your shop's image.

XIX

Thou shall always bleed and drain your aircompressor and air lines as a part of routine, preventive maintenance.

Doing so will prevent many finishing problems--mainly moisture contamination of your coatings that can result from the formation of condensation in the air lines.

XX

Thou shalt always deliver the restored pieces to the customer only after the finish is completely dry.

It's only common sense. Don't move a piece with a finish that is not dry yet! Also, be sure to let the customer know when it'll be safe to place objects on top of their furniture and advise them on basic maintenance.

This article was published in Professional Refinishing magazine, January/February 1998 issue.

This page was last updated on: July 9, 2002